Instructions
Congratulations on your purchase of Slipshot! The installation is easy and your holeshots will be improving in no time!
First, there are two basic terms you need to know – “air gap”, which will set the amount of “hit” you want, which allows the front wheel to get up over the gate, and “traction control” or “slip” which will control the speed of clutch engagement.
Installation:
SlipShot is easy to install and bolts to the engine right behind the clutch arm lever on the left side of the engine case (or in front for 2019 YZF250). The countersunk bolt/tab is threaded through the aluminum body to allow for proper left to right alignment on the clutch arm. Once this position is established, tighten the nylon lock nut on the back side of the aluminum body. (See figure A) Pending the angle of the clutch arm, included is an additional piece that will align the clutch arm perpendicular to the dampener. A clutch arm alignment piece (see figure CA1) is needed on the RMZ 450, CRF 450, KXF 250, YZF 450* with electric start, and YZF 250** and can be mounted above or below the clutch arm depending on the alignment of the dampener. (See figures B & C)
*The YZF 450 with electric start requires removal of the clutch arm to either: a) exchange for welded alignment bracket or b) drill two 4mm holes in the clutch arm and bolt to the clutch arm alignment piece (see figure CA2 & CA3) from below as shown. (See figure D) Be sure to apply red loc tite to this bolt.
**The YZF 250; 2014 – 2015 does not require alignment piece. 2016 – 2018 requires alignment piece shown in Figure CA1.
–The 2019 YZF 250 with electric start requires the alignment piece shown in Figure CA4. The SlipShot will mount to the lower clutch cable bracket bolt and face the rear of the bike instead of the front like other models. (See figures E, F G & H) *Also, there is a small, raised piece behind the clutch arm, take a small file and file it down a little to make sure the bolts that hold the alignment piece do not hit it. (See figure J)
Once the SlipShot is mounted, run the traction trigger cable upwards along the inside of the frame to the handlebars and connect to the traction trigger (old school hot start lever). (See figure M) Zip tie the cable as needed to hold in place along the inside of the frame.
Adjusting:
After your SlipShot is installed, the first thing to do is set the locking position. This is the resting position of the clutch as it would sit on the stand. (See figure K) This is adjusted by loosening the top jam nut and tapping the locking slide forward or backwards as needed. (See figure L) Check this position often to make sure it is locking. As your clutches wear, the locking position will change. Verify locked position is correct by cycling through the procedure of pulling the clutch lever in, push the traction trigger (hot start lever), and then release the clutch lever. You should hear the pin “click” as it locks in place. If it doesn’t, loosen the jam nut and realign.
Next, the air gap adjustment (controls “hit”) is the distance between the end of the dampener and the clutch arm. Start the bike and hold the clutch lever in the position you would hold it on the gate (preference is to let it out a little until you feel the bike wanting to “creep”). At that point, you want about a 3mm gap (approximately 1/8”) between the clutch arm (or clutch arm bracket) and the dampener. Less clearance will have a softer hit and more will be harder. *When adjusting the air gap, only adjust the dampener with ¼ turn increments – a little makes a big difference. To set this gap, loosen or tighten the dampener body and then make sure to tighten the 4mm allen head pinch bolt when finished. Once the air gap is set, go back and check that the dampener is still locking in place.
Finally, the traction control is adjusted by the dial on the back end of the dampener. This controls how fast or slow the clutch engages. The higher the number, the slower it moves. A good starting point is about 6.5. Be sure to tighten the small allen head jam bolt on the back side of the dampener to keep the dial from vibrating and changing your setting. Also, that screw is your reference for the numbers on the back of the adjuster. Again, a small adjustment here makes a BIG difference. (Example: from 6.5, if you want it slower, adjust to 6.75.)
Testing:
Once you have it installed, you need to practice using it without the engine running. Sit on the bike and pull the clutch in, then push the traction trigger (hot start lever) to release the SlipShot. At this point, you would click the bike in gear, and you are ready to do a start. Once you release the clutch lever, the SlipShot will lock in place and your clutch will work normal for the rest of the race. Do this several times so you understand how SlipShot works. Next, you’re ready to try some real starts, and I would suggest in a field or in front of the gate until you get used to how it works. Do a few starts without SlipShot to get comfortable with how your bike launches normally. After that, engage SlipShot and do the exact same thing. You will immediately feel the difference. Your rpm’s should increase as you get confident and you will start releasing the clutch faster than ever before due to SlipShot controlling the release. Burping and slipping the clutch is no longer necessary. The SlipShot will handle all of that in one fluid motion and you can concentrate on the first turn and leaving the pack behind!
Thanks for your purchase and Happy Holeshots!!
Standard Assembly
Figure A (KXF250)
Figure B (RMZ250)
Figure C (RMZ450)
Figure D (YZF450)
Figure E (YZF250)
Figure F (YZF250)
Figure G (YZF250)
Figure H (YZF250)
Figure G (YZF250)
Figure K
Figure L
Figure M
Figure CA1
Figure CA2
Figure CA3
Figure CA4
SLIPSHOT
Pantent Holeshot Traction Control